Malerweg—Finding My Feet in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains

Why I Hiked the Malerweg (and How I Planned it):

I needed a trail that didn’t just lead through landscapes — but through myself. After closing the door on a seven-year relationship, I wasn’t broken or bitter — just ready to find my footing again. No drama, no big declarations. Just a pull toward solitude, motion, and space to recalibrate. I had leftover vacation days and no real plan, just a quiet urge to be outdoors, alone, and away from all the noise. I started researching destinations that wouldn’t feel too far or too foreign — something wild, but still walkable. That’s when I found the Malerweg.

A long-distance hiking trail through Germany’s Saxon Switzerland, it weaves through sandstone cliffs and forested gorges once immortalized by Romantic painters. A trail made for reflection, for moving slowly through beauty. It promised physical challenge without extreme hardship, and cultural depth without the pressure to rush. Exactly what I needed: a route with just enough structure to keep me grounded, but open enough to let the questions come.

So I packed my gear, charged my camera, and drove to the starting point of the Malerweg in Pirna with no expectations other than walking. This was my first solo hike — and my way of relearning to be alone, not lonely.

My Malerweg Packing List (First-Time Trekker Edition)

This was my first real trekking trip, so I had to figure out from scratch what gear I’d need. After about 5 weeks of obsessive research and shopping, I’d assembled a 20 kg setup:

Backpack	Osprey Aether 70L
Sleeping	Deuter Orbit +5 Sleeping Bag, Salewa Powertex Bivibag I
Clothing	Weatherproof jacket, softshell, long-sleeve base layers, underwear & socks, rain pants, hiking pants, climbing gloves
Boots	Lowa Camino GTX boots
Special Gear	Leki Corklite Trekking Poles, Black Diamond Iron Cruiser Via ferrata set
Safety	Black Diamond Spot, First aid kit, folding trowel
Navigation	Maps, compass, route description, iPhone + backup phone
Cooking	Gas stove, pot, bowl, metal cup, 1L bottle + 3L bladder
Camera	Canon EOS 1000D with Joby Gorillapod tripod

Edit from Future Me:

Some of that stuff? Totally unnecessary. I only used my stove and pot twice — mostly out of guilt for carrying them. I never touched the instant noodles I’d packed, since the local food options were too good to pass up.

For meals, I ended up eating a lot of crispbread and canned meat, which, while heavy, actually kept me full. I refilled my water bladder (3L) at guesthouses and restaurants along the way. Simple worked.

Day 1 · Saturday · October 5, 2013

Malerweg Section 1: Pirna to Wehlen—First Steps Into the Sandstone World

This first stretch of trail has a lot of subtle gems — the kind you only notice if you slow down and really look. At first glance, it might seem less spectacular than the days to come, but for me, this was the first hurdle:

Could I actually do this?
Would the weight of my backpack break me?
Would I be okay sleeping outside?

I’d never done anything like this before. And yes — hiking with a full pack was tough. But the feeling of being out in the fresh air, walking every step of the way by foot, made it all worth it.

Later in the day, I followed a small side path through the Teufelsgrund (Devil’s Hollow). At the end, I spotted a group of crows making a racket. As I got closer, I saw a little owl perched in a rock crevice. I grabbed my camera — but before I could snap a photo, one of the crows swooped in and chased it off. No owl shot for me, but the moment stuck.

As evening fell, I wanted to sleep outside. So I kept walking until I came across an old, abandoned inn past Wehlen. I hung my wet clothes under the porch, thinking I might have to find a room after all — but in the end, it turned out to be the perfect, peaceful place to spend the night.

Day 2 · Sunday · October 6, 2013

Malerweg Section 2: Wehlen to Burg Hohnstein—Into the Forest

I hadn’t expected the night to be that loud. Between the trains, distant parties, and an absolute zoo of forest animals, everything echoed through the dark woods. By day, the rustling leaves drown it all out — but at night, it’s like someone turned up nature’s volume.

One animal made sounds I still can’t identify. I half-dreamed it was a group of rabbits having a deep conversation, until it woke me up.

Breakfast on a stone table: just birdsong, leaf rustle, and silence. Absolute bliss.

I was a bit chilly, but after eating I felt recharged and focused on today’s mission: conquering the Bastei Bridge and then heading to Burg Hohnstein.

By early evening, I just barely managed to snag a single room with breakfast before the reception closed at 6pm. With a proper roof over my head, I explored the old castle grounds until dusk.

Day 3 · Monday · October 7, 2013

Malerweg Section 3: Burg Hohnstein to Falkenstein—First Night in a Boofe

New day, new boots on the trail. I left Burg Hohnstein well-fed and ready, headed toward the Schrammsteine. My goal for the night: a Boofe (a rock shelter) near Falkenstein.

It had rained a little overnight, but the real downpour isn’t expected until Thursday. Fingers crossed the weather holds — I’ve got climbing plans ahead!

After nearly 4 hours of hiking, I checked my map and realized… I hadn’t made it very far on the via ferrata.

I probably would’ve been quicker sticking to the main trail, but the scenery is way too beautiful to rush. So I took my time, snapped tons of photos, and soaked it in.

Quick snack break, then back to the path.

Day 4 · Tuesday · October 8, 2013

Malerweg Section 4: Falkenstein to Ottendorfer Hütte—Schrammsteine & Stiegen

Golden sunrise. Hot lemon tea. What a way to start a day. After yesterday’s clouds, today feels like an upgrade — even with a longer route ahead.

Today’s hike is longer than the last — about 5 km more than the usual 11–13 km legs — but so worth it. This stage goes through the Schrammsteine, and includes my first real Stiegen (iron ladder routes), complete with climbing harness and safety clips.

Starting tomorrow, I’ll be based for 3 days at the Ottendorfer Hütte for climbing — can’t wait. But first: breakfast. Then onwards.

Eventually, after 20+ km of hiking, some serious scrambling, and trails like the Wilde Hölle, the Häntzschelstiege, and the Kuhstall, I finally reached Ottendorfer Hütte.

The last few meters I had to step outside the Funkloch (signal dead zone) just to send a message home that I’d survived the day and my feet still (barely) worked.

My legs are toast, but what a day:

• Reached Schrammstein Aussicht
• Climbed the Carolafels
• Scrambled down Häntzschelstiege
• Crossed Kuhstall arch
• All in blue skies and sunshine

Solid stats. I’m wrecked. And pumped. Climbing starts tomorrow.
But for now: Gute Nacht.

Day 5 · Wednesday · October 9, 2013

Climbing Basics in Saxon Switzerland—A Malerweg Detour

The sun didn’t really show up until the evening, and we had some chilly moments throughout the day — but the climbing warmed us up fast. It was my first official climbing course, and it was absolutely packed with new skills and insights.

We covered:

• A variety of knot techniques
• Free and secured climbing
• Belaying for a partner
• Self-secured descents

Our guide had a wealth of experience and plenty of wild stories from the mountains — making the day not just practical, but also full of perspective. A beautiful and educational day, with some seriously nice views to top it off.

Day 6 · Thursday · October 10, 2013

Rainy Gym Day: Climbing Indoors

Heavy rain overnight meant no outdoor climbing today — wet sandstone gets brittle, and climbing on it can permanently damage the rock. So instead, we made our way to a climbing gym in Pirna to keep practicing.

It wasn’t quite the same as being out on the rock, of course. The walls were all vertical (90°), and we could change up difficulty levels as we liked. It wasn’t easier — just different. My fingers were definitely feeling it by the end.

Still, solid training. Hopefully the weather clears up soon — we’ve got a 20% rain chance tomorrow. Until then: feet up, fingers rest.

If you’re thinking of going climbing in Saxon Switzerland, I highly recommend staying at the Ottendorfer Hütte — whether you’re taking a course or just looking for a place to stay. The team is warm and welcoming, the dorms and holiday house are great, and the instructors always have good tips and banter to share.

Day 7 · Friday · October 11, 2013

Rainy Stiegen Tour—Off the Malerweg, but not Off Track

This morning, a group headed to a climbing hall across the border in the Czech Republic. I meant to join them — but ended up waiting on the wrong parking lot and… got left behind.

So I returned to the Ottendorfer Hütte and hatched a Plan B:
a rainy solo Stiegen tour with Steffen Michel (aka Michéle, the boss). He even drove me to the start point and picked me up at the end — soaked to the bone but full of stories.

This hike was a fantastic round through the Affen- and Schrammsteine, despite the weather.

At the northwest end of Rauschegrund, I reached the Starke Stiege — which at first looked like a dead end. The rock wall seemed solid and featureless… until I spotted narrow metal grips over a crevice.

Epic climb. Slippery, dramatic, and completely worth it.

🙏 Big thanks to the whole Ottendorfer Hütte crew.
I learned so much, had a blast climbing, and was welcomed like a muddy friend. These few days left a real impression.

Day 8 · Saturday · October 12, 2013

Michel dropped me off near Arnstein, and just like that, I was back on the Malerweg with my full pack.

The weather held up surprisingly well through the day — until I neared Großer Winterberg in the evening. Then the rain hit.

By the time I got to Schmilka, I was absolutely drenched and in no mood to camp. I found the one place with a room still available… and yes, it had a bucket under the ceiling to catch the rainwater dripping through.

But hey — it was warm, dry(ish), and it even had a TV. I made myself cozy and just let the day wash off.

Day 9 · Sunday · October 13, 2013

Malerweg Section 6: Schmilka to Gohrisch—Back into the Mist

After a cozy breakfast, I caught the ferry across the Elbe around 9 AM — solo passenger, just me and the water. Behind Schöna, the trail climbs over several Tafelberge (table mountains), each rising about 300–400 meters. It was overcast most of the day, but now and then sunlight broke through, spotlighting the landscape in dramatic bursts. The views from the plateaus were stunning — I even caught a glimpse of Dresden on the horizon.

By afternoon, the skies cleared and stars returned — perfect conditions for a wild bivy (boofen, as the Saxons say). I picked a quiet spot near Pfaffenstein, famous for its needle-like rock formation, the Barbarine.

Good night, under the stars again.

Day 10 · Monday · October 14, 2013

Malerweg Section 7+8: Pfaffenstein to Pirna—The Final Stretch

The final night was a humid one, spent bivouacked on a covered picnic table somewhere near Pfaffenstein. A bench, a table, and a roof—luxury accommodations at this point. I even whittled myself a fork from a stick for dinner—worked surprisingly well.

The morning mist clung low and heavy in the valleys, but it made for one of the most magical sights of the trip: Königstein fortress just peeking out above the clouds, an island of stone in a sea of white.

From the bivouac spot, I made a quick climb through the Nadelöhr (the “eye of the needle”) and up to the views from Pfaffenstein and its famous spire, the Barbarine. After soaking it all in for a good hour or so, I decided to take it easy and spend the last full day enjoying one final highlight: Festung Königstein. Otherwise, I’d need another day—or skip the fortress altogether.

I descended to the town of Königstein and gratefully hopped on the Festungs-Express, which spared me the climb up to the fortress with my full pack. Civilization hit me like a wave. I remember overhearing conversations and thinking: Wow, that’s what we’re stressed about? A bit cliché perhaps, but after a week in the woods, everything felt… smaller.

From there, I wandered toward the Biedermann Mausoleum, a peaceful spot with a view back over the fortress, before continuing through the Bärensteine toward Wehlen.

Once in Wehlen, I hopped on the S-Bahn to Pirna. First stop: the döner shop right at the train station. Dropped my pack, unlocked the car, sank into the seat—and absolutely devoured that thing. Pure bliss. Probably the best döner of my life. No joke.

That’s when it hit me. A massive rush of joy and energy. Felt like I could lift trees, like nothing in the world could touch me.

I hadn’t booked anything in advance, just wanted to stay flexible. So I checked into a hostel last minute and finally crashed—totally exhausted but full of that post-adventure euphoria. What a day. What a trip.

Tomorrow, Dresden.

Day 11-13 · Tuesday-Thursday · October 15-17, 2013

Dresden after the Malerweg—High Spirits & Slow Mornings

Seeing the Malerweg behind me brought a feeling I can barely describe. I’d walked this entire path on my own, without anyone guiding me, and for the first time in years, I felt like I was living my life — not just following someone else’s. It was as if a veil had lifted. Sure, maybe that’s just a trick of the mind — but it felt fantastic. Now, time to discover Dresden.

City Tour Highlights:

• 🏰 Sightseeing tour to warm up
• ⛪ The Frauenkirche — stunning architecture inside and out
• 🖼️ The Zwinger — a baroque fever dream of elegance
• 🍔 Devils Kitchen — tried a kangaroo burger (!)
• 🎸 Kiezklub — stumbled into a live Pluto gig behind the bar. Absolute vibe.

Day 2 in Dresden:

• 🏰 Fortress tour — quirky, funny, informative
• 🍽️ Venison liver for lunch — surprisingly tasty
• 🎬 Evening cinema + night stroll — quiet end to a packed trip

Saturday · June 21, 2025

After the Malerweg: What I Packed, What I Learned, and What I’d Tell 2013 Guse

When I set out on the Malerweg, I didn’t fully know what I was walking toward — only that I needed to walk away from something.

A seven-year relationship had just ended, and with it, the version of myself I had come to know. I wasn’t looking for dramatic transformation. I just needed space — real, quiet, forest-filled space. So I packed a backpack (far too full), tightened the straps, and went looking for ground under my feet.

On What I Carried

Let’s just say… I packed with enthusiasm, not experience.

A bivy bag. Full cooking setup. Climbing gloves. A full-size tripod.
Enough clothing to outfit a mid-sized alpine rescue team.

I used maybe 60% of what I brought. The rest was just weight on my shoulders and a lesson in what not to do. But you know what? Carrying too much was part of the process. I needed to feel it — to literally carry the things I thought I might need, before learning I didn’t.

What I really needed:

• Trust in my legs
• Enough water
• Something dry to sleep in
• And a bit of curiosity each morning

What the Trail Taught Me

It taught me that discomfort is rarely the end of the world — it’s just the beginning of adaptation. That silence can be loud at first, but eventually becomes a friend. That getting forgotten in the wrong parking lot might just lead to a better day than the one you planned.

It reminded me how little it takes to feel grounded: Birdsong over breakfast. Cold feet warming in a sleeping bag. The smell of wet rock. The taste of Knäckebrot after 15 kilometers.

It also taught me that a trail is not something you conquer. It’s something you learn to walk alongside — breath by breath, blister by blister, photo by photo.

Things I’d Do Differently on the Malerweg

• Leave behind the instant noodles and just commit to eating out when you know there are options.
• Don’t bring the climbing gear unless I know I’ll actually use it.
• Pack lighter. Much lighter.
• But do keep the camera — even if the photos are grainy now, they still speak.

Oh, and maybe double-check which parking lot the group is leaving from. Just saying.

A Word to 2012 Guse

Hey you.

You’re walking heavy right now — in more ways than one. And it’s okay. You’ll figure out what you need and what you don’t, step by step. You’ll learn how to pitch better plans, and how to toss them aside when something better (or wetter) shows up.

This trail won’t fix everything. But it’ll remind you that you are the one walking. No one else. And sometimes, that’s all it takes to come home to yourself again.

Enjoy the stars. You’ll miss them when you’re back in town.

– Guse, 2025
Still packing too much, just a little smarter about it now.